Saturday, June 7, 2008

The Journey Continues

Dear America,

At my orphanage, the kindergarteners stay inside the compound the entire day and the primary and middle school students come home for meals and at night, but the high school and college students come home less frequently. Many of them, especially the high school students who are in Gongyi itself, come home on the weekends. As a result, I looked forward to my first weekend here;as a change from the kindergarten, which I felt only somewhat helpful in, I could hopefully build bridges (figuratively speaking) with the older kids. I did indeed get to spend time with some of them, as well as a college student, Hank, who was back to gather some information he needed to get his passport in the hopes of studying at an American seminary after he graduates. I've since had some good conversations with him and with Ben Godard (the American fellow who is here learning in order to start his own orphanage) about the Holy Spirit, and the necessity or efficacy of father's blessings.

The evening of the first full day I passed up an opportunity to go ot a pre-wedding banquet for one of the kindergarten teachers because I wasn't too sure if I, not having been invited, would be welcomed. Apparently the number of foreigners that you have at your wedding is directly linked to your prestige (one lucky employee ended up with an entire group of visiting foreigners all tagging along to his wedding, and his prestige leaped because of it), and having me along would only have made things better for her. I'll be keeping my eye out for another opportunity, however, as I've heard that the Chinese tend to spare no effort or expense in their weddings.

I did get another opportunity to got out when Justin, a fellow who had worked here for a summer a few years ago, came back with his girlfriend to visit for the weekend. On Sunday we foreigners and Hank wandered around the local Song Dynasty tombs and park (which to our delight had free admittance), which was actually one of the nicer historical sites. No one is allowed inside the actual tomb area, but rhere is a big hill built up to one side, so we climbed the hill and could see over the wall into the large, peaceful woods and grass on the inside, with a massive mound marking the place of the tombs. It was nice change from the crowded, dirty, and often commercialized other cultural sites I've visited. Afterwards we returned to the Godard's house for an informal worship service and message delivered on the old testament law as understood and applied in the new covenant. We finished the evening with Justin treating us all to Hot pot with the addition of Nathan, his two adopted kids, and the Godard children (who really were too tired, but couldn't be left at home). The dinner was a rich fare which made a pleasant change from the food I'd been eating at the orphanage.

In the week or so prior to coming to China, between wedding dinners, my mother's inspiration at having all her children at home, and various oother factors, I ended up eating like a (western) king at nearly every single meal. From champaigne and beef with mustard sauce, however I went to boiled wated and a bowl of sliced beans. It took most of the week to adjust to the different food: at home I eat almost everything except vegetables, while here my diet consists almost entire of vegetables. A bowl of cucumbers for breakfast, a bowl of seaweed and tomatoes for lunch, and a bowl of tofu and spinach for dinner, each meal with a mantou, the Chian plain white bun. Comforts such as jelly, butter and cheese were non-existent, while other staples of my life (eggs, meat, fruit) were scarce. This is not to say in any way that my eating has been poor, nor let my gentle readers assume that I am ungrateful for hte food provided for me. I simply seek to reavel the great contrast in my diet.

In recent days, I have gotten more used to this simple fare, and have come to accept it. When there truly is no other option, it becomes amazingly easy to accept what is presented; and as always when I go beyond my own home, I find that through immersing myself completely in the culture of my destination I learn more from it. While I would not choose to life my entire life eating bowls of vegetables with nary a cow in sight, I am enjoying it for this time. (Though honesty requires me to admit that one day when I went out shopping for some things with Ben, I purchased and consumed with great relish a bottle of orange juice -- 16% juice!)

In addition to adjusting to a new diet, it took me a few days to learn the vagarities of the dining system. Breakfast is available anywhere from before I wake up (sometime before 5:30 am) to about 7:15 am on most days. You might be able ot get it a little later if for some reason people didn't eat a lot. Lunch, however, is served promptly two minutes after teh kids arrvice back from school, and will be done with by 12:45 at the latest, a winded of half an hour. I unknowingly arrived at 12:30 one day to discovered the food all consumed, and was punished for it by a guilty conscience when I discovered that the reason the cook had told me to wait a little was because she was cooking me up a personal portion! Dinner is a little more relaxed, but again I have learned not to dawdle for many minutes after the bell buzzes.

I tend to eat slowly, even by American standards. My good meal is one with good company which, an hour after the last of the good food has been consumed, we all are still sitting around the table talking; and this is an ideal that I always strive for and occasionally acheive. I understand that at least in some circles and on some occasions, this is shared by Chinese people (with, perhaps, a bit more beer and hard liquer than I'd prefer). In other times and among other people, such as my current place and time, the greatest virtue of a meal is in volume of food consumed over time spent consuming it. As I make my half-hearted attempts to figure out what I'm eating, enjoy my food, and still eat quickly, I inevitable end up sitting alone at the end of each meal, finishing up my first bowl of gurel or what have you, while my campanions, having arrived after me, have eaten two and a half bowls, already washed their dishes and are gone. It is not something I particularly mind (I naturally would prefer if others shared my concept for a good meal) but does reveal fascinating cultural differences: they tell me, "Quickly finish your food!" and I ask, "Why?" And they say, "I don't know!" But the urgency still remains. Some say the food is the most important part of Chinese culture. It's a fascinating culture.

Cheers,
Chris

Coming soon: more thoughts on kindergarten, organizing a competition, and breaking new ground.

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